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Few Kudos to Kubo
Located in the bowels of Leslieville, Kubo Radio (894 Queen St E) appears to have taken the wrong turn off of Yonge. Excuse our neighbourhood essentialism, but by now we should have all heard about that “neat little Thai/sushi/Korean fusion place right near MuchMusic.” It’s the place that has all the aesthetics of a vaguely Asian eatery (spring rolls on the menu), though cannot authentically be placed anywhere specifically – or even generally – in Asia. It’s not Chinese or Thai, but it looks like it could be. So, for that reason, it shouldn’t offend anyone to simply refer to these places as authentic Queen St W. And Kubo Radio, though on the east side, is exactly that.
Dumplings are extra salty, as in lick-your-lips hey that was salty. The Yaki Udon, with a little terryaki-like sauce, is American shish kabob in a not-very-good disguise. The bar is stocked with our favourite Mill Street brews, including the holiday-only Helles Bock. There are also fantastically fat dessert dumplings.
In many ways, the whole Kubo Radio experience is like watching Lost in Translation and then pretending to know something about Japan. And, as in the tame-yet-satisfying movie, there’s some merit in that sort of almost-there exoticism. One might even use the word “cute” or “cutesy.”