The big breweries may have the money to throw away trying to convince Canadian drinkers that consuming this or that brand is a patriotic act, but Ontario's craft brewers—with names evoking heritage and local lore—enjoy greater credibility as local institutions. Likewise, the big breweries may dominate the Beer Stores shelves, but they can't come close to the province's endless selection of distinctive microbrew cream ales, amber lagers, porters, or Belgium-style wheat beers. Nor can......