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Fashion Week Fall 2009 Collections: Day Three

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A model at Joe Fresh. Photo by Pete Lytwyniuk / Studiolit.


Smaller is better? Believe it: this fashion season, everything’s been downsized, from L’Oreal gift bags containing a single, travel-sized hair spray (minimalism?) to the teeny-tiny LG laptops in the Media Lounge—wait, make that “Filing Room.” For journos surviving on Kit Kat Singles and huddling around mini-screens, it all feels a bit like a visual gag.
In fact, looks like the only things that aren’t smaller at LG Fashion Week are…the models? Mais oui. First, we poorly conceal sneers at the use of “real women” at Cheri Milaney’s grandma-wear show. Oldsters? Gross. (Anita Clarke of I Want I Got said it nicely: “I like a little fantasy with my fashion.”) Later, in keeping with this season’s official motto, LG Fashion Week showed big love to bigger girls with a Plus-Size Model Search Cocktail Party. Winner Brittney Fisher, twenty-three, will appear in ads for Reitman’s Fashion Group, as well as a plus-size supplement in LouLou Magazine.
We missed the coronation, however, having been whisked away to City Hall for a meet-and-greet with local politicos, international press and buyers, and Robin Kay (who looked Mary-Mary-quite-contrary in a Comrags gardenia-print dress, oddly coupled with wintery black boots). Media alert: this is where they’re keeping the food. After snacking on samosas with a pair of Spanish journalists, we’re pleased to meet a woman breathlessly described by Eye Weekly‘s Rea McNamara as a “sixties Yorkville legend”: designer, painter, and onetime boutique boss Marilyn Brooks. The conversation goes as follows.
Brooks: “So, are you doing some modelling here?”
Torontoist: “Umm, no. I can write. I can spell.”
(Somehow, Brooks remains charming.)


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Comrags. Photo by Pete Lytwyniuk / Studiolit.


All were back in the tents for Comrags, the quarter-century-strong line designed by indomitable duo Judy Cornish and Joyce Gunhouse. As always, it was thoughtful and immaculate; the DJ missed beats, but the show never did. Comrags dresses have grown up with the designers, and this season, the look is that of a prim and Prada-loving librarian, albeit one with a rich inner life.
Rust and charcoal wools were mixed with woodsy plaid; men’s socks went under Fleuvog lace-ups (some with cute peep toes). For a finale, there was a profuse array of silks in every silhouette, from retro-fitted to mod and smocked; all very nice, though perhaps in need of a steam blast from one of the Rowenta machines parked in the tent. In the end, what we loved most was the models’ hair, all teased and tangled into magpies’ nests with pretty shiny things pinned in.

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Two looks from Andy The-Anh. Photos by Pete Lytwyniuk / Studiolit.


For clothes to make a satin-smooth entrance, no Canadian designer is more reliable than glamour maestro Andy The-Anh. But for the next party season, he zoomed in on the exit too, tying the backs of dresses into oversize bows (see also: Valentino, Carolina Herrera). From a relentlessly beige first half, made bearable only by wondering whether all those crystallized leggings were part of the line or just a cool styling touch, The-Anh burst into a subdued riot of colour combinations. At best, we thought of the latest Balenciaga show; at worst, “oh god, is there no end to this rainbow?”

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Andy The-Anh. Photo by Pete Lytwyniuk / Studiolit.


Dawdling before the Pink Tartan show, we chat with account executive Maryam Keyhani about the stunning, silk-flowered necklace she’s wearing—her own design, hand-made. With everyone from FASHION Magazine‘s Jordan Porter to Holt Renfrew’s Natalie Lecomte to Robin Kay herself demanding an outsize, inspired piece of Keyhani’s work, she may just be the off-runway story of the season.
Chat over, we’re rushing only to find ourselves stuck in seating limbo. Brooklyn Brownstone to the rescue! The FDCC’s girl-in-charge shows us to the best seat in the house: the tech booth. Here, we discover that the “voice of God,” you know, the one forever sternly booming at us to get in our seats, is named Sam. He wears suede sneakers and performs impromptu jigs when show music plays. We’re delighted.

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Pink Tartan. Photo by Pete / Studiolit.


For fall ’09, the Pink Tartan woman is Grace. Again? But no, it’s not Ms. Kelly. Instead, founder-designer Kimberly Newport-Mimran presents the whitest Grace Jones alive. Seriously. With only two black models in the whole show, we can’t help wishing someone had slipped the lovely Mimran a copy of that Vogue Italia. The clothes are as cocktail-ready as you’d expect, with neatly tailored separates (cropped skinnies, swingy coats) mingling among zipped-up satin frocks. Only one really stands out: a navy body-con number with a padded collar (a nice switch from the shoulders). Plus, we instantly covet a mean pair of leather pants, nicely paired with a navy cardigan. But the rest feels rather too familiar. Black, white, hot pink, and houndstooth? We know Barbie is an inspiration to us all, and yet….

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Joe Fresh Style. Photo by Pete / Studiolit.


Season after season, the big question is: who’s gonna walk the grocery aisle? Everyone’s favourite Loblaws label, Joe Fresh Style, always manages to score the boldest-faced models. But we’ve seen Irina Lazareanu here before; is it too much to hope for Daria? As for the clothes, Joe Mimran’s making a strong bid to design our Olympic athletes’ uniforms. If you’re thinking figure-skating skirts, black fleece headbands, and athletic grey knits, you’re right. If you’re thinking puffed parkas and slim-cut ski pants, you’re also right. If you’re thinking a hooded bodystocking or a “snow skirt,” made of white puffed nylon over tulle, you’re crazy…but right. Best of all are the boots, made of what looks like (what else?) PVC, laced up Docs-style with cozy knit trim; buffalo check is cool too, but better bought vintage.

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Top: DJs spin Daft Punk remixes at Carte Blanche. Bottom: Carte Blanche co-owner Dan Augustino. Photos by Hannah Sider.


And if you really wanted to know what the youth are wearing, you would have skipped the tents and hit the open bar at Queen West cool-kid mecca Carte Blanche. Thrown by Speech Jewellery (with a little help from Absolut Vodka), it was the party of the week: if you weren’t there, you must be over twenty-five with a day job. Travis Taddeo‘s radically attired stylist and scenester extraordinaire (first name Cary; last name, well, with a first name like Cary, who needs one?) found a way to dance in YSL suede platforms; Carte Blanche “muse” Danielle Tummon fulfilled her dubious duty by looking skinny and awesome; Lookbook starlet Hannah Sider snapped pictures of her fluorescent-lipped friends. Around the eleventh hour, the party followed Richard Lambert to his bar (you know, The Social). We did not.

Comments

  • http://null rek

    “First, we poorly conceal sneers at the use of “real women” at Cheri Milaney’s grandma-wear show. Oldsters? Gross. (Anita Clarke of I Want I Got said it nicely: “I like a little fantasy with my fashion.”)”
    And to think there are generations of women killing themselves with fad diets, feeling miserable about their bodies, and dreading the day they turn 30. I wonder where it comes from.
    “Winner Brittney Fisher, twenty-three, will appear in ads for Reitman’s Fashion Group, as well as a plus-size supplement in LouLou Magazine.”
    I hope you had a chance to pull her aside and sneer in her face.

  • http://undefined andrew

    Well done, Sarah Nicole Prickett. You’ve written another article very well about a subject I know very little about and managed to convey information clearly, concisely, with verve and wit.

  • http://null Vaneska

    I like to fantasize that fashion models actually eat.
    Cheri Milaney’s collection may not be my thing, but atleast I know that my mom, my grandma, and I could all rock the look. That is refreshing.

  • http://null Czarina

    I love the snide comment about models being illiterate morons juxtaposed neatly beneath the writer’s obvious desire to have her audience know that she was mistaken for one.
    Great photography, though.

  • http://s-nicole.blogspot.com Sarah Nicole Prickett

    Andrew, thank you!
    Vanessa, I know what you’re saying (just as I know there’s no way you would wear a stitch of the Milaney collection!) and I sort of agree, I do. I like models who eat too. I’m just not such a fan of watching someone’s aunt walk down the runway; if Toronto ever wants to achieve world-class fashion status, it needs to not look like Peterborough.
    Corrina, I don’t give a shit about being mistaken for a model. It flusters and annoys me. Why would someone assume that because I’m 23, relatively attractive, and above average height, my only place in fashion is that of clotheshanger? But that may be a defensive, inaccurate feeling on my part. And that bit of transcription makes me look like a social (if literate) moron; it wasn’t intended to insult models in the least.
    And yes. This photographer is awesome.

  • http://www.publicspace.ca Jonathan Goldsbie

    But… you do model sometimes, right?

  • http://null chenyip

    They do eat. Low carb diet of cocaine, water and cigarettes.

  • http://null chenyip

    They do eat. Low carb diet of cocaine, water and cigarettes.

  • http://undefined rek

    Water causes bloating.

  • http://null prosperegal

    You know, I think Cheri Milaney’s show was GREAT and the women who strutted their stuff looked just as professional as the young, skinny-minnies for the other shows. More designers should do what she did and if you didn’t like it, you really have issues. As for Brittney Fisher, plus sized clothing need models too (just as petite clothing brands do). Just wait until plus and petite-focused designers make their way into the fashion world. Oh wait, they won’t, because of people like you.

  • Karen Whaley

    Hmm, when you said Cheri Milaney’s models were dowdy old aunt types, I had to look it up.
    http://www.cherimilaney.ca/content/galleries/collection/runway2009/index.shtml
    Actually, for “real women” in their 30′s-50′s, they look pretty hot! And there were lots of women of colour. None were obese, but the clothing flattered “normal” bodies. Not really my style, but Cheri Milaney seems to know who her audience is.
    I don’t really see a problem.

  • http://s-nicole.blogspot.com Sarah Nicole Prickett

    t-rek: I did no such thing. Nor did I say anything in this post to disparage Ms Fisher, whom I’ve never met, but to whom I wish all the best.
    jonathan: I have modelled for friends’ shoots and creatives, but never professionally, i.e. for money. I’m not saying I wouldn’t model or that it’s not a valid (albeit temporary) career choice. Just that I’m not model material and don’t aspire to be. And you? (Just kidding.)
    prosperegal: Again. Not making fun of plus-size girls. If I didn’t like the show, and I didn’t, it’s because the clothes were… not good. That’s the nicest thing I can say.
    karen: I agree, they look amazing for their age! Just not like models.

  • http://null montauk

    Your acknowledgment that there are some body issues in the fashion industry (to say the least, really) seems at odds with your apparent conviction that the current norm is the definitive litmus test of “looking like a model”. We can’t very well say “we need change” and then shoot down innovation on the grounds that it’s different. Yeah, unconventional models aren’t going to look like conventional models. Gross, isn’t it?!
    But of course, this isn’t sneering at women’s bodies – you’re just concerned for the success of Toronto fashion. Well, if it takes emaciated girls with ankle-snapping stilettos, neon orange eyeshadow and fierce little scowls to catwalk Toronto into the “world-class fashion scene”, maybe we should question our aspirations to get there. Does this have to be a race to the bottom? Or, on our way up, could some of our designers actually kick some status quo ass?
    But I digress. So you aren’t quite ready to accept smiling women with diverse bodies as authentic or serious models – fine. Or, even more generously, maybe this particular crop of diverse models just wasn’t your cup of tea. No problem. Do you have to sneer, though?
    Finally, in the context of your writing – the question mark after “the models”, the “mais oui”, the “poorly concealed sneers”, the scare quotes around “real women”, the “gross” and the implication that they aren’t fantasy-worthy – I can see how some deranged person could reach the conclusion that your disdain for “real women” might extend beyond the older demographic.
    But this is all moot because who cares about models anyway. They’re just “clotheshangers”, right?